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Preferred order of boat storage options:

  1. Heated boatyard hangar or barn (best, but most expensive)
  2. Unheated barn or garage
  3. Outside, covered (shrink-wrap or suitable off-season cover)
  4. Outside, uncovered (avoid this option, if possible)

Some places to store your boat during the offseason:

Boatyards in mid-coast or down-east, or inland (e.g., Sebago) typically are less expensive than those here in the Portland/Falmouth area.


Winter Storage Covers

Below are some approaches to DIY boat covers (actually the support frames) used when storing your boat outside during the Maine winter.

WhiteHawk Template:

This is a stick-figure diagram looking at the side of the cover, bow on the right…

Stern Deck      Cockpit       Chainplates      Bow Deck
           C                       B                   A1
L—————-T——————-TT———-=\
|                     |                         /  \                 \ 
| 4                  | 3             2P  /      \  2S              \
|                     |                      /         \                      \

I have turned 1 and A into one angled pipe of 139”

  • “2” = 60 inches on long surface, 57” on underside, cut ends at 125 degrees.
  • “3” = 76”
  • “4” = 49 “
  • “B” = 74
  • “C” = 106”
  • “A” has a 12” pipe glued to a 22 Degree angled joint that attaches to a 95” pipe that mates to a coupler with another 32” of pipe with a steeply angled cut of 20 degrees to lie along the foredeck.
Assembled (mostly) winter cover strongback used by 1139 WhiteHawk
Chamfer the ends of legs 2P and 2S to fit against the chainplates
Chamfer the ends of legs 2P and 2S to fit against the chainplates

Fortitude Template:

1174 Fortitude, similar to 1350 Schadenfreude 2:

Stern Deck      Cockpit       Chainplates      Bow Deck
           C                       B                        A
L—————-T——————–TT——————L
|                     |                          /  \                       |
| 4                  | 3               2P  /      \  2S           1 | 
|                     |                       /         \                   |

Assembly Breakdown:

  • A = 98” straight pipe.    30” tie ropes installed in each end, for assembly. 
  • B = 75” straight pipe.    30” tie rope aft, 48” tie rope fwd (holds both TTs)
  • C = 105” straight pipe.  30” tie rope in each end.
  • 1 = 44” upright pipe, includes L,  placed on plywood base on foredeck.
  • 2P, 2S = pipe legs, 59.5” long side 56.5” short side, includes “Ts,” ends cut to 35 degree angle to fit deck. Small 3/16” line installed in deck ends, tie to chainplates.
  • 3 = 76” upright pipe, includes “T,” ties to aft end of center console, extends down to cockpit deck, placed on plywood base, front edge cut to fit flush against console.
  • On 1174, a recess hole is cut in the forward face of #3 upright, fits over the backstay cam cleat, so #3 can be tied flush to console.
  • 4 = 49” upright pipe, includes L, placed on plywood base.  Strong winds require this upright to be tied in place with guy ropes, from “L” to trailer, both sides.

PVC Fittings:

  • L = 90 degree PVC “L”
  • T = 90 degree PVC “T” fitting
  • TT = two (2) PVC “T” fittings, with short coupling pipe in aft “T,” rotated to place legs just inside the chainplates
  • BASE = under #1, #3 and #4;  plywood, carpet underneath, with PVC adapter ring on top (bases are removable for storage). 

Assembly Sequence (bow to stern):

  • Assemble A, 1 and 1-Base on fwd deck; tie A to the “L.”
  • Assemble 2P & 2S to aft end of A; tie “Ts” and A together; tie chainplates.
  • Secure 3 to console; assemble 3 and B;  tie at “T.”
  • Assemble 4 and C, tie at “L” and “T.”  Secure “4L” with side guys.